The List Eating & Drinking Guide 2005/2006

Hitlist: The New Bell

A neighbourhood restaurant that has earned a city-wide reputation for supremely satisfying dining at decent prices.

Review

 Pushing open the heavy wooden door in to the dining room of the New bell is like stumbling upon a well-kept neighbourhood secret. It’s run by husband & wife team Michelle & Richard Heller, and the duo perform a compatible double-act: Michelle keeps a lively front of house while Richard maintains the kitchen’s consistently high standards. Inside, warm lighting and thoughtfully mismatched décor cocoon diners in a mellow atmosphere of almost blessed-out contentment. Combine this with cuisine that is as welcoming as the interior and you have a restaurant that strikes a fine balance between good dining and familiar comfort. Take the ravioli haggis starter, a rich and tender

 mouthful in a Calvados and veal jus that will leave you begging for seconds. And while you will undoubtedly be thrilled by a main of pink, peppery venison, a crispy fillet of sea bream encrusted with a prawn and tarragon mousse is sure to inspire the envy of your dining companions. Iain Mellis cheeses are on the menu alongside desserts but spiced poached pear served with a dollop of pistachio-coated mascarpone is hard to ignore – and  match it with a dessert wine from the concise but interesting wine list.

+ Seriously impressive food in a wonderfully warm setting

- Sometimes so relaxed it can seem a touch soporific