Spectrum

Let the good chimes roll

THERE may be a shortage of pubs in Edinburgh serving really good food, of the quality you'd get in a restaurant, but there are several pubs with genuinely good dining-rooms attached. But none of them - not the Doric, nor the Shore Bar, not the Old Dock Bar or even Iglu - can beat the New Bell in Newington for atmosphere or quality.

You get to the New Bell by wending your way through the Old Bell, a pub on the fringes of the Meadows, deep in the heart of student-land. It is, by the way, a very good pub that has nothing twee about it. As well as the decent beer and raucous regulars, there are some nice touches that mark it out as a civilised place to spend an evening, such as the scrabble and chess sets on the bookshelves, which are themselves stacked with old leather-bound classics.

Not that I was just here for the beer. I had heard about the New Bell from several friends, and was keen to try out a place that retains a mystic reputation as one of the great culinary secrets, known only to longstanding Edinburgh residents. Despite all my best efforts, there was a burden of expectation that usually presages disappointments to come, but for a change the place more than lived up to its advance billing.

As you climb the back stairs of the pub, you are taken up to a room that covers the whole of the first floor. The first thing you notice is that the walls are so densely hung with etchings, oils and prints that in places you can't even see the wallpaper. The tables and chairs are a hotch-potch collection of various styles, but the eclecticism of the place certainly works: the new Bell has a welcoming, homely feeling that draws you in and puts you at ease.

Not only did I like the look of the place, I was equally impressed with its well-balanced menu, which seems to have something to suit every taste. And it tastes as good as it looks.

Some beautifully light bread was followed by pan-fried fillets of wood-pigeon. These were superbly tender, even if the accompanying sauce - a mix of wild mushrooms and a redcurrant and port glaze - threatened to overwhelm the subtle taste of the meat.

The grilled goat's cheese came with a salad of rocket and roast sweet potato, dressed with cumin and honey and topped with pumpkin seeds. Despite seeming like a chaotic melange of competing tastes, this was an enjoyable dish that worked perfectly.

If a cracking pace was set by the starters, it was more than maintained by the main courses. The pick of the pair was a huge plate containing two grilled fillets of seabass and four king prawns, accompanied by sauté potatoes and a nicely nuanced sauce vierge. This was marginally better than the baked fillet of salmon with a lemon-and-herb crust, which came with crushed potatoes and a rich romesco sauce. But the difference was only one of degrees: both dishes were excellent.

The one disappointment of a generally top-class meal was the minuscule plum-and-almond tart. On another day, it could have hit the spot, but I must have got the tail-end of the chef's last batch. But not only was it a Lilliputian - I mean really miserly - portion, but it was lukewarm and the crème anglaise that came with it turned out to be a latticework affair on the side of the plate - merely for decorative purposes. On the plus side, the hot chocolate fondant with a wonderfully tart mandarin sorbet went straight into my top ten puddings of the year.

The New Bell's menu isn't exactly cheap, but it does compare very favourably with food of similar quality nearer the centre of town, with a three-course meal for two, plus wine, coming in at £70 before service. Throw into the equation friendly and informative waiting staff, and it's difficult to understand why the New Bell has remained such a secret for so long.

Vital statistics

New Bell, 233 Causewayside, Newington, Edinburgh (0131 668 2868)

Out of pocket

Starters £3.50-£7.50 Main courses £11-£21.50 Puddings £5-£5.50 Cheese £6.95

Tipping points

Food: 15/20
Service: 16/20
Value: 14/20
Setting: 15/20