The New Bell, a relative newcomer to the Edinburgh restaurant scene is above the Old Bell pub, though if you want to avoid going through the downstairs bar, you can sneak upstairs via a side entrance in Duncan Street. The space used to be the pub’s function suite and the dark wood bar is still there as a reminder of its boozy past. Strangely, it doesn’t look out of place in the cosy dining room.

The first thing that strikes you about The New Bell is the wonderful service. No sooner than we sat down than the women in charge rushed over to check we were happy with our table. We were. We were even happier with the menu and wine list. The New Bell boasts “a blend of traditional and contemporary cooking using the freshest of Scottish produce” and that is exactly what was on the menu.

The five starters and seven main courses had clearly been chosen for their seasonal availability, which is always a good sign. And the puddings looked scrumptious. But first things first, the wine” We’ll have a bottle of fizz,” I told my husband. “ Not champagne,” he squeaked, clutching his credit card. “

 No they’ve got that lovely Australian stuff made by Chandon…. It’s just as good,” I replied before ordering. And half the price, I might have added. Nigel had chosen the roasted pumpkin soup for his starter, and reassured me it was “delicious, if a bit sweet.” I had swithered between the marinated squid rings, pan fried with mushrooms and port, and the goat’s cheese and pesto crostini, finally plumping for the cheese. The crostini was quite simply first class. The tang of the goat’s cheese was complemented by the sweeter pesto and the lentil dressing which came with the dish was intriguing. There was clearly an assured chef working in this kitchen.

My husband had his own dilemma when it came to choosing his main course. He just couldn’t make up his mind between the fillet of salmon with a sun-dried tomato, coriander and parmesan crust and the grilled sea bass. I quite fancied the cava and chive sauce which accompanied the sea bass, so obedient as ever sea bass is was. He was pleased he had taken my dvice. The fish was perfectly cooked and the sauce was mouth watering. I had chosen a much more robust dish; my pan fried

Party food is on the menu, but Susan Dalgety decides to opt for something more substantial than crisps. And she's not disappointed at The New Bell

 breast of duck was just the job. The bird was so tender it melted in my mouth and the generous helping of sautéed garlic potatoes was more than sufficient to fill me up. But not enough to spoil my appetite for a pudding.Without hesitating I ordered the chocolate bavarois, the chocolate wasn’t quite rich enough for my sweet tooth, but that didn’t stop me clearing my plate. Nigel had struck very lucky. His apple and whisky tart was one of those homemade puddings to die for, and the cinnamon ice cream was sublime. For that alone the New Bell is worth a visit.

Thursday 8th November 2001